Pair of Spanish rose-cut diamond earrings, the top section with a hinge to suspend the lower half

Gold mounting, circa 1700, of a substantial weight for the size, and retaining the original fittings (which can be tricky for some)

4cm long

SOLD

Late 17th century rose-cut diamond seven stone ring
C.1670

Centred by a beautifully high-cut rose diamond, three smaller to either side, mounted in gold with typical black enamel with white dots on the underside
Superb condition for the age, the engraved decoration to the shoulders would have been enamelled originally but is now almost all missing.

10mm wide

Finger size UK - N (US - 6 1/2)

SOLD

Georgian sugarloaf-shaped cabochon amethyst and diamond ring
English c.1780

Finger size M 1/2

Sold

Pair of late 19th century gold, carved garnet, rose diamond and natural pearl parrot on a perch earrings
The body formed by a single carved garnet, the reverse cold enamelled in green

French circa 1900

SOLD

Mid-17th century enamelled gold and diamond crucifix pendant.
Northern European (The Netherlands?) c.1650

Set with eight very fine quality table-cut diamonds and suspending a natural pearl. 17th century crucifixes with diamonds are very rare.

Losses to the enamel, commensurate with age

45mm long, 34mm wide

SOLD

Two gold rings

Of indeterminate age, likely antique, I initially thought they were Celtic (750BC to 43AD) but now am unsure what period they come from.

What they are is very tactile, having a lovely colour and texture from how they were wrought. The larger has tool marks at the ends and the smaller with small dot indents at the sides.

They fit together or can be worn separately

SOLD

A late 16th century gold ring set with a fossilised sea-urchin
European c.1600

Similar to a ‘toadstone’ ring, which itself is the fossilised tooth of a lepidotus fish. These were worn as a charm imbued with magical properties to, amongst others, ward off epilepsy and dropsy.

15mm diameter
9.6 grams
Finger size approximately Q 1/2, US - 8 1/4

SOLD

Pair of 18th century enamel, ruby and rose diamond ‘masquerade’ earrings, circa 1750

Exceptionally rare to find a pair of earrings, especially in this size, and in such fine condition. Mounted in silver-gilt .

37mm long excluding wires, 13.4g gross weight

SOLD

Mid-17th century gold and diamond three stone ring with black and white scroll enamel decoration. Circa 1660

A rare survival retaining the majority of the enamel decoration, one of the three table-cut diamonds has been replaced by an old cushion-cut diamond, though this must have occurred many years ago as this is apparent in the illustrations in the books mentioned below, the first of which was published in 1993

Illustrated in Rings - Jewellery of Power, Love and Loyalty by Diana Scarisbrick, page 313, item #436

also;
Rings, Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection by Diana Scarisbrick, pages 94/5

Finger size J ½ (US 5)

SOLD

Victorian gold and platinum collar necklace with detachable locket
English c.1870
Approximately 17” long

A extremely rare example of the early use of platinum

The use of platinum only became widespread around 1900 as the technology to create high enough temperatures developed. The necklace here shows the very early use of platinum to create a contrast, predating the more widespread use by over twenty years

Compete with a locket pendant having applied entwined initials, also in platinum, though the connecting link has become lost.

In the original retailer’s fitted case from P Dickinson, Jeweller, of Preston (Lancashire, UK), the lid initialled M.L.

Enamelled gold and crystal ring c.1590. The bezel containing two table-cut crystals imitating diamonds, held by a gold bird's claw to each corner. The underside of the bezel with black enamel decoration, the shoulders similarly monochrome enamelled. 

Overall condition good to very good - some losses to the enamel, particularly to the lower shoulder, and abrasions to the crystals. all commensurate with age

Finger size 8 (UK P)

For similar examples see Dalton, Catalogue of the ringer rings in the British Museum numbers 1989/90 and Oman, Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum

SOLD

Early 19th century gold mounted agate suite of necklace, bracelet and earrings

Probably Scottish, c.1810

Superbly mounted, with a knurled lining around the inside of each setting - they really do not get better than this example. Note the matching knurled connecting links….

The necklace 43cm (17”) long, the bracelet can be added to add an extra 18.5cm (7 1/4”)

The largest necklace collet measures 2.5 x 2.2cm

Earrings 4.5cm long (1 3/4”)

SOLD

Byzantine gold marriage ring
The circular bezel depicting Christ joining a couple in marriage

Ex Guilhou collection #845

Finger size UK - O, US - 7
Weight approximately 7g

Provenance:
E. Guilhou, Paris, by 1912;
Sotheby's London, November 1937

Literature:
Catalogue of a Collection of Ancient Rings formed by the Late E. Guilhou, Paris, 1912, p. 99, no. 845, pl. XIII

SOLD

Victorian diamond open oval link necklace
English c.1870
Open set in silver and gold
Approximately 29-30cts total diamond weight

38.5cm (15”) long

SOLD

A very wearable late 17th century diamond cross

Mounted in silver with ten table-cut diamonds, and a further three in the bale above. Shown here on a modern chain

50 x 32mm

SOLD

Two early 18th century agate and diamond figures with later plain gold ring shanks

The ‘King’ illustrated in Diana Scarisbrick's Rings - Jewellery of Power, Love and Loyalty, page 261

SOLD

An important and previously unrecorded jewel in the Renaissance taste attributed to Fortunato Pio Castellani. Rome. C 1870

A pair of deeply incised emerald portrait cameos depicting Silenus and the young Bacchus/Dionysus. Mounted in gold settings heightened with black enamel and separated by a baton-shaped element decorated with pearl terminals.

The open back of the jewel reveals that the stones are joined mechanically to the setting with gold filigree tabs. These, together with the hinge and safety clasp of the jewel, are wholly characteristic of the Castellani workshops.

The brooch belongs to a series of similar jewels by Castellani that appear to owe their origins to German Renaissance tradition, none of which appear to be signed. For a discussion of this and photographs of comparable jewels see Castellani and Giuliano – Revivalist Jewellers of the Nineteenth Century by Geoffrey C Munn. (1984) Page 119 and plates 181- 183.

A suite of cameo jewellery from this series is illustrated in Geoffrey Munn's book, the same suite features in the 2004 Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry by Susan Soros and Stephanie Webber, and another features in the Villa Giulia Collection, Rome, home of the Castellani collection.

There is a necklace of similar design, also with emerald cameos, in the Cooper Hewitt collection, New York

It is worth noting that emerald cameos are rare, they are difficult to carve because of the nature of the stone, having numerous “jardin” inclusions. To have a pair of cameos of this size and strong colour is extremely rare. It is highly likely they were carved by Antonio Odelli, specifically for Castellani

Approximately 6cm x 3.5cm

SOLD

An extremely fine and rare 16th century enamelled gold and lapis lazuli intaglio ring with a most desirable provenance

The lapis lazuli intaglio of Hercules wrestling with Antaeus; Hercules with billowing cloak and lionskin, his club on the ground before him, with ground line. Very finely carved, the bezel and shank with multi-coloured enamel scroll decoration, two fleur-de-lys in white enamel to the underside

The gem is described in the Boardman/Wagner/Zwierlein-Diehl catalogue as renaissance, but had previously always been referred to as Roman

Second half of the 16th century

The head 16 x 14mm, 5.8g gross. Finger size UK - Q, US - 8, Fr - 57 3/4

Arundel A56 (2), Marlborough 301, Boardman/Wagner/Zwierlein-Diehl catalogue of the Marlborough collection No 171

Mentioned in “Rings for the Finger” by George Frederick Kunz, who quotes Rev.C.W.King’s conjecture that from the style of ornamentation the ring may have belonged to one of the Valois Kings of France

Kunz, George Frederick, 1856-1932 Rings for the finger : from the earliest known times to the present, with full descriptions of the origin, early making, materials, the archaeology, history, for affection, for love, for engagement, for wedding, commemorative, mourning, etc.

“The rich Arundel Collection, chiefly brought together by a Lord Howard of Arundel, towards the end of the seventeenth century, incorporated in the Marlborough Cabinet and later dispersed, included a beautifully adorned gold ring set with a splendid lapis lazuli on which a Roman engraver had cut the design of Hercules wrestling with Antaeus. The hoop of this ring is ornamented on the inside with two fleur-de-lys in white enamel, the entire ring being covered with arabesques of entwined vine branches in black enamel. In his description. Rev. C. W. King conjectures from the style of ornamentation that the ring may have belonged to one of the Valois kings of France.”

For similar designs in enamel it is interesting to note several jewels illustrated in the Jewel Book of Duchess Anna of Bavaria which was produced in 1552

PROVENANCE;

Thomas Howard (1586-1646), 14th Earl of Arundel.

Entry in the 18th century catalogue of the Arundel gems by Andrew Fountaine:
56 – Hercules, crushing or squeezing Antaeus, raised from the ground against his breast: very fine. Lapis lazuli. – Antaeus was a giant and famous wrestler, who recovered his strength as soon as his feet touched the ground. Hercules, making this discovery, caught him in his arms, and raising him from the ground, he crushed him in such a manner as to overcome him. This was one of the twelve labours of Hercules – one of the best ancient statues represents this action. Pliny mentions the statue.

Inherited by his wife Alatheia Talbot (1585-1654) then by descent until gifted in 1762 on the occasion of the marriage of Lord Charles Spencer, by whom given to his elder brother George Spencer (1739-1817), 4th Duke of Marlborough.

David Bromilow, Bitteswell Hall, Lutterworth, until 1898;

by descent to Julia Harriet Mary Jary (née Bromilow);

Christie, Manson and Woods London, Catalogue of the Marlborough Gems: Being a Collection of Works in Cameo and Intaglio Formed by George, 3rd Duke of Marlborough, 27 June 1899, lot 301. Sold to Asher Wertheimer (1844-1918) for 42 Guineas

POA

Rare mid 19th century French shell cameo commesso brooch.

Gold mount with green and red enamelled foliate decoration, partial marks for Félix Dafrique, Paris circa 1850.

The cameo depicting Anne de Beaujeu (Anne of France, 1461 - 1522) her dress, ermine gown, headdress and coronet in three colours of engraved gold, the cameo carving attributed to Paul Lebas.

The Victoria and Albert museum, London, has a very similar, and very well known, example by Dafrique representing a young Queen Victoria. Their example is believed to have been shown at the London Great Exhibition of 1851, the brooch shown here is most likely from the same series and made approximately at the same time.

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O73187/queen-victoria-brooch-lebas-paul/

In excellent condition with no damage
75 x 50mm

Superb pair of late 19th century diamond bracelets set throughout with old-cut diamonds mounted in gold and silver.

There are two removable extension links to enable the bracelets to fit together to form a choker with some flexibility in size.

Original fitted case by Skinner & Co, Orchard Street, London
c.1890

12mm wide

Approximately 40cts total diamond weight

SOLD

Late 18th century diamond button cluster, mounted in silver and gold, later converted as a ring
English c.1780

19mm diameter
SOLD

16th century gold ring with an ancient heliotrope intaglio

Depicting a warrior, possibly Apollo, holding a bow in his left hand and a downward pointing spear in his right, mounted in a gold ring with engraved decoration around the bezel showing remnants of coloured enamel.

Engraved gems, and gem engraving, enjoyed a revival during the renaissance and those most highly prized were ancient examples. Indeed Benvenuto Cellini, the most famous of renaissance goldsmiths, mentions in his autobiography how dazzling ancient gems were discovered in the vineyards around Rome, destined to be used again in a 16th century masterpiece. Thinking of a hard gemstone a millennium or more old and carved with images of the gods, one can easily imagine how a nobleman of the middle 1500’s would find the romance and mysticism of an ancient gem enrapturing

The gem circa 2nd century AD, the ring German circa 1550

10mm wide, the gem 9x7mm. Weight 8.3g gross

Finger size approximately UK - U, US - 10 1/4, FR - 62 3/4

For two similar examples, in particular the engraved decoration, see:
“Rings: Alice and Louis Koch Collection” by Anna Beatriz Chadour. Page 200, rings number 652 and 653

Sold

Late 16th-early 17th century gold claw ring c.1590-1600. The bezel containing a cushion shaped garnet (later) held by a gold bird's claw to each corner. The underside of the bezel and the lower section of the claws with blue enamel decoration.

The inside of the shank inscribed in the same enamel "Ex dono robe........ti wadeson" (the gap is where the ring has been re-sized). Stating the ring was a gift from Robert Wadeson.

For similar examples see Dalton, Catalogue of the ringer rings in the British Museum numbers 1989/90 and Oman, Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum number 312

SOLD

Charles I Royalist diamond ring
A lovely high table-cut diamond of very fine 'water' with two smaller table-cuts either side
Mounted in gold, the reverse engraved in fine 17th century script 'Car. Rex. Jan 30.1648-9'
It is quite possible that this ring was a personal gift from Charles I before his execution, and engraved by a Royalist member of the Hutchinson family shortly after.

Provenance:
By family repute, given to Thomas Hutchinson (1589-1643) MP, for allegiance to King Charles I

Interestingly, Thomas' eldest son, Colonel John Hutchinson (1615–1664) was a regicide and, as such, was directly responsible for the execution of Charles I. As a member of the high court of justice in 1649, he was the 13th of 59 Commissioners who signed the King's death warrant.

Ring size UK - L 1/2, US - 7 5/8

SOLD

A very rare double-sided carnelian intaglio by Luigi Michelini, mounted in gold as a swivel ring, French c.1810 .

Minerva to one side, Perseus to the other. There are initials to each side - Λ Μ by Minerva, ΡΥΧ by Perseus.

Λ Μ was the signature used by Luigi Michelini, a pupil of Giuseppe Girometti. Born in Rome but a naturalised Frenchman, he was working in Paris at this time.

Sold Sotheby’s London 16th December 2020 for £20,160 including premium

A fine and rare 15th century gold iconographic ring

Iconographic rings are quite rare in themselves but his one stands out further for two reasons:
Firstly, the subject is St.Michael, which is far more unusual than the often found (relatively speaking!) Virgin and Child, St Christopher and St Barbara, but even more exciting is the inscription inside "Elle Me Plest" (sic) She Pleases Me with traces of white enamel

To the best of my knowledge, this inscription is previously unrecorded. The rings themselves are peculiarly British and yet there is no record of a similar inscription in either the British Museum or the V&A. The Oxford University Press published a book of hundreds of English posies in 1931, with a forward by Dame Joan Evans - nor is there a record of a similar inscription there, so this example could possibly be unique.

slightly under 6mm wide, 4g and finger size UK - M, US - 6

Sold

Early 20th century ring set with a very fine pear shaped emerald opposing a pear shaped diamond of very faint pink hue, approximately 1.25ct, tested as type IIa.

Mounted in platinum c.1905

Approximately 28mm long
5.2 grams

SOLD

17th century garnet and enamelled gold ring

A stunning foiled rose-cut garnet set landscape in a white enamelled gold mount.

This is an extraordinary rare survival of an enamelled gold and gem ring from the early sixteen-hundreds, it compares directly with those found in the now famous Cheapside Hoard, which was discovered in 1912 by workmen using a pickaxe to excavate the cellar at 30–32 Cheapside in London. The hoard comprised of more than 400 pieces of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery, including rings, brooches and chains, with bright coloured gemstones and enamelled gold settings.

Also see a near identical ring, only set with a toadstone, in the Hashimoto Collection, Japan, and illustrated in the catalogue of the collection “Historic Rings” by Diana Scarisbrick

Finger size approximately UK - J 1/2, US - 5, FR - 49.5

Sold

Achilles carrying the dead body of Patroclus

Oval carnelian intaglio, Achilles kneeling and steadying himself with a dagger point to the ground, the shield in his left hand protecting the body of Patroclus over his shoulder.

Achillies gave the armour he received from his father to Patroclus in order that he may impersonate him and beat the Trojans back to their ships. After succeeding in this Patroclus defied Achilles' order to return, and pursued the Trojans back to the gates of Troy where he killed many Trojans, including a son of Zeus, Sarpedon.

During this battle Patroclus' wits were removed by Apollo, then he was killed by Hector, stabbing him in the stomach with a spear and stripping him of his armour. A grief stricken Achilles retrieved his body, only allowing a funeral after the ghost of Patroclus appeared and demanded one in order to pass into Hades

Mounted as a ring in yellow high-carat gold with wonderful heavily floral chased wide shoulders c.1840

The head approximately 20 x 15mm
15.4g gross

Finger size UK - W, US - 11 1/8, FR - 65 but easily altered

Sold

A rare and very fine ancient Roman carnelian intaglio of a naked athlete.

The convex gem superbly carved and highly polished to show the athlete, his muscled body glistening with oil, having just thrown a spear or discus.

Circa 1st century BC

Mounted in a late Georgian gold ring, English c.1820

The gem approximately 12mm diameter
general wear to the surface, commensurate with age, chips in the area between the feet

For a similar gem see Hermitage Museum number ГР-21607

SOLD

A very pretty little ancient intaglio, a horse’s head in profile.

Would make a lovely “pinkie” ring for a lady, this can be discussed and quoted for

Roman 2nd-3rd century AD

Approximately 9mm x 7mm

Sold

Antique cornelian intaglio of Pandora with her box signed ΣΟΣΟΚΛΕ (Sosokles) by Giovanni Calandrelli (Italian, 1784 - 1853), mounted in an early 19th century gold ring

Whilst the gem is engraved, like many Poniatowski gems, with a spurious signature, the original sketch is held by the Berlin Museum (reproduced here courtesy of the Beazley Archive and Antikensammlung Berlin: A.VI.39)

From the collection of Prince Stanislas Poniatowski, number 1839-566

Bibliography:
Catalogue des pierres graves antiques de S.A. le Prince Stanislas Poniatowski ([1830?]-1833): IV.6
Christie's, London: 1839-566
Calandrelli drawing, Antikensammlung Berlin: A.VI.39
Platz-Horster,G.: L'antica maniera. Zeichnungen und Gemmen des Giovanni Calandrelli in der Antikensammlung Berlin (2005): P.91

SOLD

1st-2nd century AD red jasper intaglio of a Bacchant, facing left, set within a Georgian gold ring c.1790

The head of the ring measures 17mm x 14mm

A superb intaglio in a very fine mounting
The gem appears to be published in Lippert, number 158, but the description describes the material as “sard” - the engraving appears identical so this could possibly be a mistake, or it is a remarkably similar gem

Finger size UK - Q, US - 57 3/4, EU - 8

SOLD

Antique 18ct gold diamond set double snake ring
A good, heavy example Chester hallmark for 1914, each head set with three old-cut diamonds and rose-cut diamond eyes
10mm wide, 17.5g gross weight

Finger size (centre) UK- S, US - 9.5

SOLD

A substantial 22ct gold band ring set with rubies and old-cut diamonds forming the letters MIZPAH.

An emotional bond - “making a pile of stones marked an agreement between two people, with God as their watching witness”

London 1912 (possibly 1932, difficult to differentiate)

8.7mm wide, Approx 14g gross

Finger size UK - M, US - 6

SOLD

Late 17th century gold ring with a Roman carnelian intaglio of two maidens offering a bowl of fruit and corn, symbolising abundance and prosperity. The underside of the gold bezel with the initials F and A with a charming little engraved fish between them.

Intaglio 1st 3rd century AD, ring c 1690.

The head 14mm x 11mm, finger size approximately UK- O, US - 7

Sold

A late 16th to early 17th century agate cameo of an infant Bacchus astride an ass, supported by two satyrs, mounted in the original gold ring c.1600

A very rare survival of an early 17th century gold ring with an intact cameo, the cameo could possibly be a little earlier than the ring.

Overall in excellent condition, some wear and losses to the cameo but nothing significant, the four small claws around the cameo are a later addition for extra security, and the back of the shank has been reinforced at some point, this could be improved if sizing were necessary. All-in-all very good condition for a 400 year old piece of jewellery

The head approximately 20 x 17mm

Finger size UK - N, US - 6 1/2, FR - 54

8.5g gross

Sold

A Roman aquamarine ring stone with a portrait of Faustina Minor

Circa 2nd century AD

5/8 in. (1.5 cm.) long

Sold Christie’s London 4th December 2019 for £156,250 including buyer’s premium

1st - 2nd century AD Roman nicolo intaglio, probably Venus Victrix holding the Apple of Discord awarded by Paris, mounted in a heavy and nicely shaped high carat gold signet ring c.1920. Unmarked, tests as 22ct gold.
A perfect “pinkie” ring for a man or woman

14.5g gross weight, the head 16mm wide
Finger size UK - R 1/2, US - 8 7/8, JP - 17 1/2, Ch - 19 1/2

Sold

Pair of 1960’s gold and diamond earclips by Van Cleef and Arpels, Paris

Textured gold wirework asymmetrical fronds around a cluster of seven diamonds, totalling approximately 1.20cts. The clip fittings have a hinged spike making the earrings adaptable to be worn as clip brooches
A superb and very wearable pair of earrings by one of the finest 20th century houses

Fully signed and numbered, French poinçon for gold and platinum

24 x 22mm
22.6g gross

SOLD

Antique diamond tiara

Mounted in platinum with very fine piercing and seven diamond pendants to catch the light. Possibly by W.A.Bolin, jeweller to the Imperial Russian and Swedish courts.
Swedish or Russian circa 1900

Reputedly from a noble Swedish family (with Russian connections)

Approximately 40mm high

SOLD

A large early 19th century rock-crystal intaglio of Napoleon crossing the Alps at the St. Bernard Pass, by Francesco Pozzi (1750–1805), after Jacques-Louis David. Mounted in gold, un-marked.

There were five versions of Jacques-Louis David’s equestrian portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte (15 August 1769 – 5 May 1821) painted between 1801 and 1805. Initially commissioned by the King of Spain, the composition shows a strongly idealised view of the crossing Napoleon and his army made across the Alps through the Great St. Bernard Pass in May 1800.

For full details of the painting, see this entry in Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napoleon_Crossing_the_Alps.

Still in the original fitted case, as Pozzi died in 1805, this intaglio is contemporary to the painting and no doubt has an interesting history, yet to be revealed.

80mm x 55mm

SOLD

Dactyliotheca - The first extensive catalogue of an engraved gem collection

Abraham Gorlaeus (ca. 1549 – 1608) was a Dutch antiquary of Flemish origin. He published this first edition of his gem cabinet in 1601.

The year following his death in 1608 the collection was sold to Henry, Prince of Wales, then, after his death, it passed to his brother, who became became King Charles I.

Gorlaeus also had a collection of rare shells, which was of sufficient interest to be purchased by the State General of the Dutch Republic as a present for Marie de Medici, for 9000 guilders

This is a wonderful and very rare 1st edition, still in a period vellum binding. I believe the Metropolitan museum has a copy, but it is a later edition

SOLD

17th Century gold mounted portrait miniature of Louis XIV, attributed to Jean Petitot, Paris c.1670

36mm long x 25mm wide

Jean Petitot was born in 1607 in Geneva, of a Huguenot Burgundian family after they fled France. After his apprenticeship in Geneva he traveled to England with an introduction to Charles I’s court. After Charles’ execution he moved to Paris, where he executed many portraits of the king, his family, and the most-celebrated figures in the king’s entourage. He is described as the first “great” portrait miniaturist in enamel.

The quality of this miniature is truly remarkable, as one would expect. It has acquired some small scratches over the last 350 or so years, these can be easily restored but I have left them as is for now. It is very nice to see an original gold mounting

The largest collection of Petitot’s work is the Jones Bequest at the Victoria and Albert Museum. There are many in the Louvre, sixteen at Chantilly, and seventeen at Windsor. Petitot was collected by Earl Beauchamp, the Earl of Dartrey, the Duke of Rutland, the Duke of Richmond, Alfred de Rothschild, the Portland Collection and Baroness Burdett-Coutts

SOLD

Late 18th century chalcedony intaglio by J.Grew, mounted in gold

Head 23 x 15mm overall

Finger size UK - R, US - 8 3/4

For a similar subject, carved by William Brown, see Sotheby’s 10th December 2015, lot 433

SOLD

Antique large “Imperial” topaz and diamond pendant
Mounted in gold and platinum, the topaz of very fine colour and clarity approximately 50cts, surrounded by old-cut diamonds totalling approximately 5cts.
Suspended from a platinum chain by a diamond bale, and accompanied by detachable brooch fittings, in the original case

SOLD

A superb early 17th century gold signet ring
In extremely fine condition, the initials BM within ‘true lover’s knot’ decoration and a pearled border
English C.1620

13mm wide, 7.4 grams
Finger size UK - O, US - 7

SOLD

Antique intaglio ring.

Large oval nicolo intaglio depicting a Satyre, or follower of Bacchus, in an ecstatic trance like dance, his cloak dropping behind him, thyrsus over his right arm and a cup in his left hand. Mounted in gold c.1800

Early 19th century gold ring with an ancient Roman hardstone (agate) cameo of a quail. A popular subject c. 1st century BC to 1st century AD. There are similar examples in the British Museum and the Farnese collection, Naples

SOLD

Antique moss agate, cabochon ruby and rose diamond brooch c.1900

This is a specimen grade piece of moss agate, very finely mounted in yellow gold. 

33mm diameter

SOLD

Late 17th, or perhaps early 18th century gold mourning ring black enamelled with a gold skeleton accompanied by an hourglass and crossed pick and shovel
Inscribed inside NEVER LOST BUT GONE BEFORE

A superb, heavy (7.3g), example in excellent condition having only minor losses to the enamel.

Circa 1700

The inscription is particularly nice, being sentimental rather than a specific obituary

Finger size N leading edge, US - 6

4.5mm wide

SOLD

A superb example of a Georgian rose-cut diamond “button” cluster ring, close set in silver and gold, English c.1780.

High rose-cuts of fine quality, beautifully matched and set into a scalloped cluster with rose gold V shaped shank.

Fantastic condition with no damage or replacements. Just the right size - big enough to be impressive but small enough for frequent wear (within reason!) 17mm diameter.

Current finger size UK “O”, US “7”, though easily altered

Sold

Late 19th century gold bracelet formed by eight different comedy masks in the ancient style, the hair and beards formed by fine gold granulation

Unmarked, Italian circa 1890

Gold granulation is a very difficult technique, “rediscovered” in the 19th century and championed by the likes of Castellani and Giacinto Melillo

21cm (8 1/4”) long, 1.5cm wide
Approximately 22g

SOLD

SOLD

1920s diamond and vivid orange-yellow diamond ring.

A wonderfully vibrant "vivid" fancy-coloured diamond in the finest of settings, un-signed but of a quality equaling the best jewellers of the period 

19th century silver Etruscan revival shells necklace.

This is without a doubt the best antique silver necklace I have seen. Inspired by the "Grand Tour" and the many important archaeological discoveries of the 18th and 19th centuries, revivalist jewellery became all the rage in the second half of the 19th century. It varies wildly in both quality and design, Castellani and Melillo of Rome being the most famous names but there were others both in the UK, the rest of Europe and the United States

It is exceedingly rare to find a necklace of this type and quality in silver. I suspect it is by John Brogden, one of the best English revivalist jewellers, who usually worked in gold

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Brogden_(jeweller)

SOLD 

Antique lapis lazuli, diamond and enamel pendant
English c.1900

The wonderfully tactile and slightly baroque large lentoid shape lapis with a platinum (un-marked) cap set throughout with diamonds and a red enamelled band. This band has a line of white text which, so far, has evaded translation.

It is in a fitted case by D & J Wellby Ltd, of Garrick Street, London. Wellby purchased Phillips Bros (of Cockspur Street) entire stock and fittings in 1902, which makes me wonder if this was actually by Phillips bros and re-cased by Wellby as it certainly has their feel.

33mm wide x 62mm long including the suspension loop
Approx 50g gross

Sold

Fabulous late Georgian diamond cluster ring, English c.1810

The oval pavé diamond panel sitting very low and curved around the finger, little diamond bi-foil shoulders and a very pretty rococo style gold shank. Of the finest quality and all in amazing un-touched condition. Total diamond weight approximately 2.5cts

12mm wide, finger size UK - M, US - 6, FR - 52, JP - 12

Sold

19th century gold Etruscan revival fringe necklace
Hollow drops with ball ends, on a ringed link chain with hook clasp
Probably Italian, with French import mark, c.1870

Approximately 15” long, the drops 1”. 43g gross

Overall very good condition, but with dents to a small number of the ball ends

SOLD

Citrine, diamond and gold clip brooch attributed to Cartier c.1945. Numbered 9771

Beautifully made, with all the characteristics of a piece by Cartier. The citrines graduating in colour around the head of the flower, the “petals” naturalistically curved. Notice the darker citrines hidden within the head……

Around the 1950-60’s the UK had a particularly punitive tax on second-hand signed jewellery. This meant that, incredibly, signatures were routinely removed from beautiful pieces of jewellery. I am sure this was the case here: I have included here a photograph of a Cartier citrine brooch from the same series, the number of which can be seen to be 9442, previously sold through Sotheby’s

Approximately 42mm wide

SOLD

Georgian diamond cluster ring, English c.1820

Central lozenge shaped diamond of approximately 1ct with a surround of smaller cushion shaped diamonds, close set in silver with a reeded wide gold shoulder and shank

The head 13 x 12mm

Finger size UK- L, US - 5 1/2 but easily altered +/-

Sold

Super-rare 17th century diamond and lapis lazuli jewel. Probably French, circa 1620-30

In “cosse de pois” or, in English, “pea-pod” style, the bold design set throughout with very fine quality table-cut diamonds and centred with a vibrant oval panel of royal blue lapis. This panel is original and perhaps once had painted decoration, but, if this was the case, there is no trace of it now. The outer edges have a black enamelled border

The only source of diamonds in the 17th century was India, and their use was reserved for the highest of classes. To think of these diamonds, coming from India to Western Europe, and the lapis coming from Afghanistan, is mind-boggling, not to mention the fact that it survived all this time.

The jewel would have been stitched in place, and it has not, so far, had any modern adaptation, but it would be possible to do sympathetically. There is a row of four loops on one side of the reverse, these may have been for pendants as the example shown here from the Victoria and Albert Museum

45mm x 40mm (1 3/4” x 1 1/2”)

Sold

Early 17th century gold signet ring, maker's mark an F (or possibly an E) within a triangle. The arms are those of John Rand M.A.

In impeccable condition, this is a rare and exceptional example of an early 17th century armorial ring

Entering Emmanuel College, Cambridge, on the 14th of January  1631, John Rand obtained his B.A. in 1634 and M.A. in 1638. He became a "preacher" at Redenhall and Harleston in Norfolk and died in 1659. 

Part of the entry for Redenhall church in "An Essay Towards a Topographical History of the County of Norfolk" by Francis Blomfield (1769) reads:

Rand per Chev, Or. & Ar. a lyon ramp Gul. Crest a boars head cooped.
John Rand MA a late painful preacher of the Gospel at Rednall (sic) cum Harleston. & Anne his wife & Eliz their Dr. Sept 27 1659

This ring was found in Redenhall with (changed from "cum") Harleston in 2015 and has been disclaimed by the Crown.

For similar examples, mostly in worn condition, see;

Oman. Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, numbers 498 and 499. (#499 has a maker's mark E)
Dalton. Catalogue of Finger Rings Bequeathed by by Sir Augustus Franks, in the British Museum, numbers 637, 638 and 641
Boardman/Scarisbrick. Ralph Harari collection of Finger Rings. Number 128

SOLD

Rare late 16th to early 17th century enamelled gold reliquary cross pendant. Spanish or possibly German, c 1580-1600.

Quite heavy-weight weighing over 44g and monochrome enamelled entirely, this has six windows, each covered with a rock-crystal cabochon revealing a holy relic. The enclosure has been riveted shut and will remain so. There are some slight losses to the enamel but only commensurate with age

77mm long, 43mm wide

SOLD

15th century engraved gold double-band ring engraved inside in gothic script "JOYE SANZ FYN" (Joy without end). English circa 1450
Approximately 7g, 7mm wide

A lovely early example of a posy ring, the bipartite form and engraved decoration being particularly unusual and charming. For 15th century examples with similar inscriptions see Oman, Catalogue of the Finger Rings in the British Museum numbers 924 to 926. See also the Fishpool Hoard in the British Museum, where there is a single-band ring with similar beaded decoration and Gothic inscription, of the same period.

This ring was discovered in the New Forest, Wiltshire, and has been disclaimed by the Crown

SOLD

Early eighteenth century silver, ruby and enamel double-sided Order of Christ pendant

Portuguese circa 1700

Provenance - Berkeley collection, Spetchley House.

Measures 5.4 x 4.5cm. One ruby absent.

Of very unusual, and pleasing, form. The dark green enamel is almost missed among the piercing and in contrast to the bright red enamel cross and rubies

The two sides are virtually identical so it can be worn without worrying about it turning

SOLD

Pair of star sapphire cufflinks, mounted in platinum c.1920
Unmarked, accompanied by a Cartier case

Born in 1895, the son of the famous diamond entrepreneur Barney Barnato, Woolf was the ultimate playboy of the 1920’s. When his father died when Woolf was two years old, he inherited a fortune, the first instalment of which was a payment of £250,000 in 1914, at the age of 19.

He was an avid sportsman, and became a Captain in the Royal Field Artillery during the first world war.

He purchased his first Bentley in 1925, and a year later bought the company! He became a member of a small social group of wealthy gentlemen with a preference for Bentley cars, known as “Bentley Boys”. He won races at Brooklands, setting a 24 hour record speed, and won Le Mans 24 hour race three times. Another claim to fame is he took part in the “Blue Train Races”, driving from Cannes to his club in St.James’, London, in 22 ½ hours.

Anyway, he sounds like an amazing, and very fortunate, character. These were his cufflinks.

Gifted by the family to a friend, accompanied by a note stating ”Belonged to my father Woolf Barnato, he always wore them”

SOLD

19th century gold brooch by Castellani, mounted with a silver Denarius of Trajan, circa 100AD

Rome c.1870

32mm diameter

Sold

Antique emerald and diamond bracelet, English c.1920

Five graduating trap-cut emeralds of very fine colour along a bracelet composed of square panels of four diamonds, mounted in platinum with beautifully engraved sides

Approximately 7 1/4” long (17.5cm)

Sold

19th century French pearl, diamond, emerald and ruby insect brooch.

The body formed by a large elongated natural pearl, the wings pave set with old-cut diamonds, emerald and diamond thorax, cabochon ruby eyes.

Beautifully mounted in yellow gold throughout, of the highest quality. French marks and numbered

42mm long x 31mm wide. The pearl approximately 22 x 9mm

SOLD

Pair of antique cushion shaped diamond drop earrings

The “old-mine” cushion shaped drops assessed as 2.32cts H colour VS1 clarity, and 2.54cts J-K colour VS2 clarity, spectacle set in platinum and suspended by a fine chain from a smaller old-cut diamond of approximately 0.30cts

In a fitted case by the Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company, Regent Street.

Circa 1910

Approximately 28mm long, currently with screw fittings but can easily be adapted for pierced ears

SOLD

The Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company held a royal warrant to the King and became Garrard & Co in the 1950’s

Chaine d'ancre bracelet by Hermes, France c.1980

68 grams of 18ct gold, fully marked and numbered

Challenged to find one of these iconic bracelets for a customer's birthday, I not only managed to complete my mission in time for the birthday but also for 33% less than the available on-line offerings elsewhere.

An incredibly rare trap-cut sapphire Renaissance ring, the gold mount with black and white enamel decoration.

Probably German or Italian, circa 1620

Sold

Eighteenth century carnelian brooch/pendant

Each rose-cut carnelian close set in silver, giving them a beautiful delicate glow that is hard to capture in a photograph. The back of the brooch with a faint gold wash

For a necklace of the same type see The Victoria and Albert Museum jewel room, object number M.82-1962 (bequeathed by Dame Joan Evans)
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O112190/necklet-unknown/

German circa 1740-50

54mm x 41mm ( 2 1/8” x 1 5/8”)

Excellent condition but would have originally had a drop either side of the existing one - at some point these were possibly removed to make earrings

Sold

Georgian multi-gemstone “harlequin” Maltese cross brooch, English c.1800

A rare example, set throughout with pink topaz, emeralds, aquamarines, rubies (would now referred to a pink sapphires) chrysolites, opals and amethysts, mounted in gold

44 x 43mm

One opal cracked, otherwise in excellent condition

SOLD

Georgian multi-coloured paste, garnet and rose-cut diamond moth pendant c.1800. Mounted in silver with gold legs, antennae and loop

25mm wide

This is a rare and very attractive example of a paste insect, particularly unusual to have it's original pendant loop rather than a later brooch fitting. Being a modest size makes it very wearable, though I'm sure it would appreciate sympathetic wear considering its age.

For similar examples of brooches see the catalogue for Brilliant Impressions - An Exhibition of Antique Paste and Other Jewellery, Diana Scarisbrick/S.J.Phillips June 2010

SOLD

17th century enamelled gold Gnadenpfennig pendant - King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, (9 December 1594 – 6 November 1632) c.1630

Small but super-rare, this is a gnadenpfennig (favour-penny) which would have been given by the protestant hero, King Gustavus of Sweden, to a devoted follower during the Thirty Year War (1618-1648)

Regarded as one of the greatest military commanders of all time, King Gustavus’ most notable victory was the Battle of Breitenfeld (1631), the Protestants’ first major victory of the Thirty Years War. In November 1632 he led the protestants to victory at the Battle of Lützen - where he was fatally wounded and died on the battlefield.

Also illustrated is a similar piece from the Rijkesmuseum and a portrait of the British mercenary Daniel Goodricke (1597-1657/8) with detail of him wearing a similar gnadenpfennig on his sash

Approximately 20x14mm including small top loop. Losses to enamel and gold, restoration to gold top ring area.

SOLD

Pair of diamond hoop earrings c.1920

Round and cushion shaped old-cut diamonds very nicely set, mounted in platinum on three sides. The original fittings have been changed at some point for a brooch-like wire and catch, which will probably need changing but this would be discussed with the purchaser

Approximately 8cts total diamond weight

SOLD

17th century gold and sapphire ring

A slim tapering gold band with a square collet enclosing a small table-cut sapphire, English circa 1600

Rare as they are, one sees similar rings with a ruby, garnet or perhaps emerald but examples with sapphire are very hard to come by. The cutting of the stone dates the ring to the early 17th century, whilst the ring form makes it appear earlier.

5mm wide, finger size approximately UK - M, US - 6

In good condition commensurate with age - the narrow (1mm) band is distorted and has a nick on the side, the sapphire has a crack across one corner but is intact. The ring is, however, eminently wearable.

SOLD

Wonderfully tactile "sweetie" pendant - a bouton shaped pink tourmaline mounted in platinum with rose diamonds c.1900. Drilled all the way through to hold in position, they thoughtfully put a little diamond in the base too

Surprisingly large at 21mm diameter, that's the size of a 5 cent coin
10g gross weight

SOLD

Georgian gold mounted emerald-green paste large cross pendant, c.1820

Approximately 82mm long including loop, 52mm wide (3 1/4" long, 2" wide)

Excellent condition

Sold

Art Deco square diamond and diamond ring, c.1920

Modified emerald-cut central diamond of 1.71cts, F colour VS1 clarity with a half-moon and bullet shaped diamond to each shoulder totalling approximately 0.80cts.

Mounted in white metal marked “PLAT”

Currently finger size UK - O, US - 7, but easily altered

Accompanied by a GIA certificate for the principle diamond

SOLD

Pair of late 17th century Portuguese rose-cut diamond and gold earrings c.1690-1700

With beautiful scroll form and jointed in two places, they have a wonderful movement and are a good size for frequent wear.

For similar examples see “Five Centuries of Jewellery” from the National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon, Portugal. Page 68, item 90

40mm long, 22mm wide (1 1/2” x 7/8”)

NB. These have the period type thick wires with a hook on the end, which require large-ish ear holes, though it would be possible to remove these (to keep) and replace with modern, thinner, wires

RESERVED

A small circular prase (chrome chalcedony) ancient Roman intaglio, mounted in a 19th century gold ring with rose-diamond line surround

Dionysos, seated on a rock, holding a theatre mask

English c.1870, the intaglio 1st-2nd century AD

11mm wide
Finger size currently UK - O1/2, US - 7.75

nb. The rose diamonds match but four appear to have been replaced

SOLD

Pair of pavé diamond and cabochon ruby bombé earrings

24mm diameter, approximately 9cts of diamonds and 7cts of rubies mounted in platinum with white gold fittings, un-marked. English c.1950

Sold

Belle époque amethyst and diamond corsage brooch c.1900

Large and quite fabulous, this is an amazing amethyst of a wonderful “Siberian” colour, beautifully cut with a slightly domed table (known as buff-cut) mounted in platinum, articulated, with diamonds and rose-cut diamonds. There are two hooks at the reverse of the bow to add a chain for use as a pendant.

One of the best amethysts I have ever seen.

The piece is very much redolent of Faberge but is in a fitted case by Leonhardt & Fiegel of Berlin, described in the lid as “Königl Hof Juweliere” - meaning they were jeweller to the royal court of Wilhelm II, the last German Emperor (Kaiser) and King of Prussia. A piece of this size and importance would undoubtedly have been connected to that royal court.

Approximately 66mm x 40mm, the amethyst around 70cts

Sold

A cased set of 16 glass models of the “biggest and most interesting diamonds in the world”

An antique (yes!) set of paste “diamonds” with the original German text. There is no mention of the Cullinan and they state that the Hope is owned by the Duchess of Newcastle (The Duke sold the Hope in 1901/2), this together with the wooden fitted case and antiquated font for the names leads me to believe it must be c.1900

The “diamonds” are Pigott, Sancy, Shah, Hope, Pasha of Egypt, Koh-I-Noor old and new, Nassak, Grand Mogul, Florentine, Regent, Empress Eugenie, Dresden Green (rare!), Orloff, Polar Star and the Star of the South

Some small chips to the stones commensurate with age, but nothing too concerning

SOLD

Ancient Egyptian mottled red jasper scarab, the reverse intaglio engraved with a warrior, possibly Heracles, kneeling with club raised and bow held out in front, 5th to 4th century BC, swivel mounted in high carat gold with wire wrapped shoulders.

The ring itself is certainly antique but not, I believe, ancient. Whilst the mount is simple, it is superbly made and robust, weighing almost 12g gross and the finger size approximately a UK “T”, US - 9 5/8 making it suitable for a man or woman

SOLD

Georgian pavé diamond ring, English c.1820

Open set in silver and gold, reeded shoulders

7.7mm wide
Finger size UK - N, US - 6 1/2

Sold

18th century diamond flower brooch, close set in silver with gold fittings. English c.1750. Approximately 5 - 5.5cts

35mm diameter (1 3/4")

Sold

A remarkable and very rare, possibly unique, angular gold and agate ring Roman 2nd-3rd century AD

Massive, at over 35g, and beautifully angular, this is a superb example of a late Roman ring, set with a charming little conical agate
It is very pleasing to wear and fascinating to look at with all the chamfers, bevels and concave sides

Finger size approximately UK size R (about a US 8 1/2)

Provenance:
Oliver Reginald Hoare (18 July 1945 – 23 August 2018)

SOLD

SOLD

Belle époque diamond and natural seed pearl necklace, mounted in platinum, attributed to Cartier, c.1910

Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (19 June 1896 – 24 April 1986)

A pair of grey and white shell earrings mounted in gold with turquoise, c.1965, formerly owned by the Duchess of Windsor and sold at the sale of her jewels by Sotheby’s Geneva, April 1987, lot 8, where they made CHF 14,000 + 10% commission

Unlike the three pairs of shell earrings in the sale by David Webb, these are not signed. They have stamped marks “585” (for 14ct) and “SC” on the clips, there was one other pair with white shells similarly un-signed, along with two pairs with the French marks for Darde et Fils (Suzanne Belperron). Who made these remains a mystery but I have no doubt the Duke and Duchess would only have purchased from a jeweller of repute.

28mm long

SOLD